Troubleshooting

Bad Helmet Connector?  Rate it

Generally the helmet connector takes most of the stress of the headset and tends to fail before any other component. If you've run the tests for bad mic and bad speakers (see the other FAQ questions in this category) you may have already determined a bad helmet connector. If you problem is intermittent, meaning it cuts in and out as you wiggle the helemt connector itself, then that's probably the culprit.

On our modular sets, you can get a replacement helmet connector. On our hardwired sets, you can send it here for repair or replacement. read more...read more...

Can't hear passenger or driver voice in the other headset.  Rate it

Run the checks described in "Bad Microphone?" Sometimes, multi-pin cables can oxidize and just need cleaned or reconnected a few times under the seat or inside the fairing. this is the most likely cause of communications problems if eithe of the headsets seems to be able to hear it's own voice.

If one seat can't hear it's own voice in the headset using intercom, then the "Bad Microphone?" checks should determine that it's the mic, but it's possible the bike itself could have a problem, which would show up in those tests as well. read more...read more...

Bad Coiled Cable?  Rate it

This is an unlikely failure. Run the checks described in Bad Speaker? and Bad Microphone? and you should be able to isolate the coiled cable using a meter, or simply find a MIDI cable and plug it in first to see if it's the cable. A MIDI cable is a musical cable used to connect keyboards and such to computers. It should have all 5 pins wired. They are available at most music stores and many electronic outlets, but a meter check is less costly and more informative. read more...read more...

One headset louder than the other.  Rate it

No two manufacturers make sets that sound the same under any conditions. So, mixing EdSets and J&M, for example, your EdSets wil increase in volume more slowly than the J&M's but will continue gaining volume without distortion well into the highest volume settings. The imbalance is caused by one set being lower resistance than the other and drawing more of the amplifier's power, but one set may be more efficient or may 'max out' quicker and the volume imbalance will be very noticable.

It's best to match headsets, but if you don't you may find that a volume control on the 'loud' seat will help, or just moving the 'loud' speakers off center an inch or more will fix the imbalance for no cost at all. read more...read more...

Low front seat headset volume!!!  Rate it

Q: My Wing has a rear seat volume control and my front seat headset has low volume all the time.
A: Follow your front seat headset plug into the left pocket...and unplug the adaptor in the line and re-plug it into the normal bike's connector. This removes an attenuator that serves no purpose on EdSets headsets, but lowering the volume. read more...read more...

Can't transmit over my CB  Rate it

Run the checks in the 'Bad Microphone?' FAQ. Also, make sure your antenna is configured properly and that the SWR is set if applicable. Make sure your mic is compatible for the system, and that all the connectors under the fairing and seat that carry the mic signal are clean and working properly. If your CB was working and just quit, suspect the mic or antenna first. If you can hear the system 'queue' when you try to transmit, but get no voice, it's probably the mic. read more...read more...

Bad Microphone?  Rate it

A bad microphone will not produce any signal when you talk into it. NOTE: Our microphones don't use battery power because the Asian motorcycle manufacturers don't have power on their mic lines, meaning they intend to use dynamic microphones or externally powered condenser or electret-condenser mics (used in computer mics, cell phones, etc...). The dynamic mics are like a tiny speaker and produce a signal strong enough to be amplified without any pre-amplification.

If you can't hear your microphone, the first place to look is at the various settings on your bike. Any of these can fool us if we're not careful. The intecom should be on, and the volume set about mid-range. Make sure the handlebar or other mute button isn't on. Also, make sure the microphone/music mute setting is disabled (most GoldWings have this setting, for example) This can confuse your troubleshooting.

Once you're sure the intercom is on and working and not muted or disabled in any way, speak into the mic at a close distance and you should hear yourself in the helmet speakers. If not, check the microphone with a volt-ohm meter amking SURE it's not connected to the bike, because you will be reading the input impedance of the intercom in parallel with the microphone giving you a false reading. The mic by itself should read about 500-600 Ohms on an Ohmmeter, and this test will not damage it. If there's no continuity directly at the mic, it's probably bad. On a good mic, if you listen closely when you test it, it will make a small noise when you apply the test leads. This is normal, and proves you're working with a real dynamic mic. If it does test ok on the mic solder points, then you can follow the leads out to the helmet connector.

If the mic tests ok, then go out to the helmet connector and check across the 9:00 and 10:30 position holes with the center hole at 12:00 position looking into the helmet connector. You should read the same resistance as you saw on the mic itself, if not, then the helmet connector is bad.

If the helmet connector and the mic are ok, check the coiled cable. The pins on the coiled cable to check are the 1:30 and 3:00 pins looking onto the end of the male coiled cable with the center pin at 12:00 position...just the reverse of the helmet connector. Plug in the coiled cable to the helmet connector and check the 1:30 and 3:00 pins and if you don't see the mic there as 500-600 Ohms on the lower part of the coiled cable that plugs into the bike, then you've isolated the problem to the coiled cable if the mic and helmet connector are ok..

Finally, if you DO see the mic resistance down on the lower cord's pins, then your helmet headset is probably ok and your bike is having troubles or some setting is interfereing with the mic operation.

Don't apply batter power to it under any circumstances. We don't warranty mics that have burned or melted voice coils as this is an indicator of being connected to a non-supported intercom system such as Harley, J&M or others that use powered mics. read more...read more...

Bad Speaker?  Rate it

If you think one of your speakers is bad, simply unplug it and try it on the other side if you have modular EdSets. If the same speaker is still bad, then it's the speaker. If you move the speaker to the other side and the same side is still bad, it's the helmet connector or coiled cable instead. Most likely, it's the helmet connector since 2-3 out of 1000 may fail at some point. We've only had 1 bad coiled cable since we began using the current ones. A new speaker can be mailed to you as a replacement.

If you have our older non-modular sets where the speakers are 'hardwired' to the helmet connector, you can check the pins on the helmet connector with a meter: If the center hole of the 5 holes in the connector is at the 12:00 position...then the 1:30 is one speaker and the 3:00 position hole is the other one. Check continuity across the 12:00 and each of the other two holes and you should read continuity. If one of the pins does not read continuity about 8-16 Ohms, then most likely that speaker is bad. A new one can be soldered in locally or you can return it.

NOTE: As you hold our speakers up looking at the back side with the terminals at the top, the Positive terminal is the one on the left. If you solder on a new one, use that terminal for the 1:30 or 3:00 wire to keep them in phase with each other. read more...read more...